Day 13 Osmotherley to Great Broughton

Weather: Cloudy/windy//sunny; Steps: 34,982 Distance: 14 miles; Time: 8h 30m; Calories out: 1051; Blisters: nil

Would you believe it, I plan a walk of 200 miles to avoid the royal wedding and on the day I'm staying in the only pub in England named the Queen Catherine. The BBC, ITV, Sky news etc were apparently all due but thankfully we were gone.

I enjoyed today's walk most of all we've done so far, probably because I love vast open spaces, and I am also feeling fitter than when we set off. We followed the Cleveland Way and the Lyke Wake walk all day across the heather covered north Yorkshire moor with great views to the north-east. Although at one point we were looking down on the clouds as they blew off the north sea. The moors were full of grouse, which seem rather stupid birds and fly quite slowly, which is probably why idiots can shoot them so easily.

Despite my views of the monarchy we did have our own 'street party'. I carried up a bottle of red wine to celebrate at midday at the highest point of the walk. I had a bit of difficulty getting the table cloth to stay on the trig point in the gales though, but the moment was captured on film.

We walked up to the Wainstones, huge chunks of sandstone. One bears the inscription 'RO 1712 WOOING JD'. It seems that this gave them their original name of the Swainstones, but the S has been dropped over time.

I spent a lot of today thinking about destiny. Probably because I'm reading Never let me go, by Kazuo Ishiguro. It's about cloned children who are bred for spare parts. They accept their destiny in a very matter of fact way that makes it almost plausible. Along the walk I've been very aware of all the animals that we keep for our own purposes. The lambs destined for mint sauce, the cows, who've had their calves taken from the them, so that we can have milk, and the grouse, purely bread for the 'fun' of killing. A rather sombre thought for what was an excellent day! But it made me think I'd like to try being vegan.

Oh yes, one more sombre thought, after miles of up and down hills I came across a bench late in the afternoon and sat down for a brief rest before the final few miles. I turned to read the dedication on it and it was in memory of 'Robbie' who died not far from the spot when doing the same walk!!

Day 12 Danby Wiske to Osmotherley

Weather: Cloudy/sunny; Steps: 26,079 Distance: 11 miles; Time: 4h 30m; Calories out: 802; Blisters: nil

I shouldn't have mentioned that we'd had no problems with evening meals in my blog yesterday. We got to the White Swan last night to be told the chef was not there but that the owner could offer us meat pie or chicken in a cheese sauce. Not too good if you're vegetarian. So I settled for just a plate of vegetables.

Another easy day along fields and lanes and then a climb up the Cleveland Hills. The challenge of the day was crossing the A19.

We left the C2C path and walked south along the Cleveland Way down to Osmotherley, a nice village of stone cottages, where John Wesley is said to have preached from the barter table by the market cross.

Royal Wedding fever seems to be hotting up; we had special union jack flag serviettes at breakfast and on arrival at the Queen Catherine Hotel, where we are staying,  we were faced with a life-size cardboard replica of Will and Kate. And then we were walking past the primary school in Osmotherley, when the children all came out clutching their souvenir mugs. A boy after my own heart came out saying to his mum "But I don't even drink tea or coffee and you can't even put it in the dishwasher"!

Day 11 Richmond to Danby Wiske

Weather: Sunny; Steps: 31,837 Distance: 14 miles; Time: 6h; Calories out: 976; Blisters: nil

Another glorious sunny day. My only injuries so far have been sunburn! A very easy 14 miles initially following the Swale, then finally leaving it behind after 2 days. But we soon picked up a beck and walked along that for miles. It reminded me very much of the beck which I played in and around as a child. I've spent a lot of the last few days thinking about my childhood, partly evoked by sights and smells. The Vale of Mowbray which we in today was very flat and reminded me of Lincolnshire where I was brought up. But it was the smells that were more reminiscent. In particular the scent of the May blossom took me right back to making dens in hedge bottoms. I think its because smell and memory are both co-located in the central area of the brain – is it the limbic system?

Tonight we are staying in a village called Danby Wiske which Wainwright, the originator of the C2C walk, described as being the low point of his project, and not just in elevation. I guess after all the beautiful villages we've been through it is a bit ordinary, but everyone here seems very friendly. I think all the villagers we've passed have said hello and the fact that the White Swan was open when we arrived was especially welcoming. They also had all the bunting out to greet us; though I think this may be related to events on Friday!

We're heading back to the White Swan for dinner. I realise I've not mentioned evening meals much probably because I usually write this just before setting off to eat each evening, in the hope that the pub has wifi to send it. But we've had some great meals. Mind you I am on my third or fourth mushroom risotto, which seems to be the standard veggie meal these days. I've only had to resort to the usual fall-back of cheese omelette once so far. The portions served all seem to be huge by comparison to what I'm used to. I think 'nouveau cuisine' hasn't reached here yet.

Day 10 Reeth to Richmond

Weather: Cloudy/sunny; Steps: 28,099 Distance: 12.5 miles; Time: 5h; Calories out: 839; Blisters: nil

Still blisters nil and rain nil. I can only think I must've done something very good in an earlier life to deserve this.

Only 12.5 miles today, funny how I now consider that just a short stroll, I think I'm psyching myself up for the 20+ milers that we've got to come.

Although pleasant walk more of less following the river Swale. I think I've heard more cuckoos over the last two days that I've probably heard for the last 20 years. Went through some more pretty villages, Marrick and Marske. Also saw banks of primroses, and woods with bluebells and wild garlic. All very pretty and fragrant!

Got to Richmond just after two so had lots of time to do sightseeing. The castle had a very interesting exhibition about the 'Richmond 16' who were conscientious objectors to the 1^st world war. They were imprisoned in the castle prior to be sent with another 32 over to France where they were forced to work and where many died. Whilst in Richmond they wrote and drew on the walls and these have been reproduced. All very interesting as to their motives. It was surprising that there were only 50 people in the whole country who took such a stance. I guess there'd be a few more now.

Staying in yet another B&B. We've been really lucky. Most have been fabulous rooms, all decorated and furnished in a 'boutique hotel' style.

Day 9 Keld to Reeth

Weather: Sunny/cloudy; Steps: 35368 Distance: 13.5 miles; Time: 6h; Calories out: 1070; Blisters: nil

We had a lamb being bottlefed in the ktichen while we had breakfast at the farm!

Took the 'low level' route along the Swaledale, but that didn't mean there wasn't still a fair bit of up and down. Saw many waterfalls or forces as they are called locally.

Went off the track to visit the pretty village of Muker. but apart from that and seeing lots of dead rabbits a fairly unremarkable day.

We're staying at the Old School House in Reeth, which had been the Master's house for the Quaker School next door and was apparently designed by the same person who did the Natural History Museum.

Day 8 Kirkby Stephen to Keld (Easter Sunday)

Weather: Sunny; Steps: 28163 Distance: 11 miles; Time: 6h; Calories out: 845; Blisters: still nil

After breakfasting with the bus drivers we left Kirkby to its merriments and set off across the Pennines. Walked up to Nine Standards Rigg, a curious feature of nine towers of stone, each about 15 feet high, mostly circular but one square. We could see them on the horizon all the way from Kirkby and so the story goes they were built by the Romans to look like an army in the distance.

Because of the incredibly dry weather the normally sodden moreland peat that we walked across was dry and even cracked. Just as well as there are stories of coast-to-coasters sinking to their knees in it. It's grouse moor and we spotted a few as we walked over,

My calories in was not helped by a cream tea in a really remote farmhouse, Ravenseat, I already felt I knew Amanda as she had featured in Julia Bradbury's series on the C2C. She's a nice lady and we had a chat about making gluten free cakes.

6 hours to do just 11 miles shows how many stops we had. The weather is just so magnificent there's no urgency to rush. I found a quarry and spent a happy half hour trying to figure out the geological record from the sandstone.

From there we walked down the lane to our resting place for the night, Pry House Farm, a working farm where they are busy lambing. They have a 1000 pedigree Swaledale ewes to lamb in the next 4 weeks.

Day 7 Newbiggin-on-Lune to Kirkby Stephen

Weather: Sunny; Steps: 21265 Distance: 5(+3) miles; Time: 2h 30m; Calories out: 636; Blisters: nil!

A whole week of walking with no rain and solid sunshine. Unbelievable. Another 'rest' day with just a short walk in the morning. More interesting ancient archaeology of the Giant's graves and some industrial history along the disused Smardale railway line which had a high viaduct over the river.

Arrived at the Croglin Castle hotel in Kirkby at midday. A vast old Victorian railway hotel in need of care. It has new owners who are making changes – but it seems slowly. Oddly enough though I feel more at home here than in many of the very prim and prissy rooms we have stayed in so far. The bedroom is vast and reminds me of the one I had as a child.

Had a look around the railway museum at Kirkby East station which they hope to open up to steam trains in August. Interesting listening to all the enthusiasts talking a strange language of numbers, which I presume were engines. There's something good about enthusiasm for whatever it happens to be

We've arrived at Kirkby on the highlight of their year – the Classic Commercial Vehicle Rally, yet more enthusiasts. There are buses, lorries, vans, fire engines, tractors, steam engines, bicycles etc. I never knew I'd enjoy it so much! The streets are full of stalls and I think all the local country folk are here. It made me realise how different a small northern market town is to Maidenhead!

The church was quite grand with a lovely pulpit made of local Shap granite. There is also a Loki stone there, apparently only one of two in the Europe. Loki was a horned devil, from Norse mythology. It dates back to when the Vikings were in the area.

We travelled on an old open top bus to Brough, a nearby village. It had even more old vehicles there. Having decided there's a limit to how many old buses you can find interesting, we decided to walk up to Brough Castle, which must have been quite amazing in it's heyday from the 1300 to 1700s. Now a ruin managed by English Heritage, with a lovely ice cream parlour run by Brough Castle Ices. Had Dime bar icecream; the best of both.

All in all a fun day, back to solid walking for the next week.

Day 6 Shap to Newbiggin-on-Lune

Weather: Sunny; Steps: 35006 Distance: 13 miles; Time: 9h; Calories out: 1048; Blisters: nil!

A short day today, just 13 miles. Most people go on to Kirkby Stephen, but we decided to split this section so that we have time to see what goes on in Kirkby Stephen tomorrow on Easter Saturday.

By the end of these two weeks I will have calves and thighs to die for – if you're a man! They are already beginning to feel and look like tree trunks as they get ever stronger as the days pass by. They're getting browner and browner by the day too, though I still have white feet below the sock line, a bit like roots!

I really enjoyed today's walk, after crossing the M6 on a footbridge, it was mostly over fells and moors. It was interesting from a geological perspective too as I saw a lot of Shap granite glacial erratic boulders and some large areas of limestone pavements. Found a coral fan fossil in one piece which had split off.

Today was also good for prehistoric archaeology. Went off the route to find a double concentric stone circle, made from granite boulders and then came across another much larger stone circle near Orton.

We went down into Orton for lunch; a very pretty village with an ancient church, pillories, and chocolatier! But alas the pub was closed for refurbishment. Since we had plenty of time today we had a siesta down by Sunbiggin Tarn; appropriately named as it was sunny and hot for yet another day.

You may have noticed that some days I'm having to post two day's reports together, dependent on when I can find a wifi signal.

Day 5 Patterdale to Shap

Weather: Sunny; Steps: 43739 Distance: 17 miles; Time: 9h; Calories out: 1304; Blisters: nil!

By now you probably tired of reading 'blisters nil' so I thought I'd share my secret – it's all down to Burt's Bees Foot creme. Great stuff, mind you I do spend hours looking after my feet each week. I have a foot fetish, but only for my own!

Today was as massive as predicted with a solid climb for 4 hours up to Kidsty Pike then down to Haweswater, which is the largest body of water in the Lakes, taking hours to walk along the northern side. 

I owe an apology to the people of Manchester, since I was desperate for a pee and just had to go within metres of the edge of Haweswater; Manchester's water source. I guess it'll be pretty diluted out before it reaches the offices of CPPE, so no worries.

My good deed for the day was rescuing a new born lamb which had fallen into a stream. I had to climb through a wire fence to reach it. The poor thing was trying to suckle the mud and roots under the overhang at the edge of the stream. Luckily the farmer was driving round the field on his quad so we managed to flag him down and handed over the lamb. He confirmed it was just born and said that some ewes just reject their lambs if they are first time mothers. He tried to find its mum but all the ones he tried just butted it out of the way. I was quite sad watching all this so we walked on. I guess if no one claimed it he'd have to bottle feed it, at least I hope so.

By the time we got to Shap at 6pm we were pretty exhausted. Had the best meal so far in the Greyhound.

Day 4 Grasmere to Patterdale

Weather: Sunny; Steps: 19717 Distance: 8 miles; Time: 5h30m; Calories out: 581; Blisters: nil!

Just a gentle 8 mile stroll today, albeit up and over Grisedale Hause, so we treated it as a 'rest day'! Chose not to do Helvellyn and Striding Edge, which was an optional extra (been there, done that, several times). In the searing heat as I watched others plod up the zigzag path on Dollywagon Pike I don't regret it. Though the views would have been fantastic. Tomorrow is said to be the hardest day, 4000 feet of ascent and 16 miles, so need to save myself for then.

Had some geological excitement as I found some lovely columnar jointing (like a mini Giants Causeway) on the path down the Grisedale valley. Found a loose chunk which I carried back down!

Got down to Patterdale just after lunch so sat by the river in the sunshine readiing, until disturbed by a Bull, his two wives and calves who waded across the river to see us. We beat a hasty retreat. Staying at the White Lion, which is a hub or walkers.

We keep meeting up with other people doing the C2C, either singly, in couples or small groups. Sometimes days go by and you've not met but then they appear at a later stage. I'm not sure how many set off at the same time as us but I guess at least a dozen. Moat seem well prepared but we have met some who have never done distance walking before, are unfit, unprepared and seem surprised at the hills!

Day 3 Rosthwaite to Grasmere

Weather: Sunny; Steps: 27712; Distance: 10 miles; Time: 8h; Calories out: 811; Blisters: nil!

Had breakfast fit for a king! Actually I didn't as I've brought my usual millet muesli and rice cakes! But I ate it off the most beautiful Spode blue and white china from a very formally set table. I could even envisage HRH at the table, rather put me off my millet.

Had the most magnificent day, I was prepared for most weathers but not heat stroke. The sun shone relentlessly and there was hardly a breath of wind. Lots of ups and downs today. We walked along the Stonethwaite Beck and then up to Greenup Gill. We then chose the high level route along the ridge finally ending up at Helm Crag, (the lion and the lamb). A steep descent down into Grasmere and along to our bed for the night at the Traveller's Rest.

Interesting geology en route, picked up a similar red and yellow spotted rock to the one I gathered last year from Fairfield. Also saw some interesting birds that I think were Stonechats..

Day 2 Ennerdale Bridge to Rosthwaite

Weather: Sunny; Steps: 39508 ; Distance: 16 miles; Time: 9h10m; Calories out: 1182; Blisters: nil!

Lovely start walking to the south side of Ennerdale Water. Encountered a tricky bit called Robin Hoods seat which I made trickier by taking the wrong path, but enjoyed a good scramble with a 30 foot drop to the water! At least it gave the other walkers a chance to overtake us.

Had lunch along the forest path to the north of the River Liza and stopped off at Black Sail YH, the remotest in England, for a cup of hot water. Then a steep ascent up loft beck to the Beckwith tarn saddle and a pleasant high level route prior to dropping down into Honister slate quarry. Then a steady descent into Borrowdale, where we're staying at a Farm in Rosthwaite. I'd love to tell you where but I fear the official secrets act my prevent me! We discovered that Prince Charles has been coming here for his holidays in the spring for many years. There are only three rooms so who knows I may have slept in the same bed as HRH.

Walked down to the Riverside bar of the Scafell Hotel for a drink and a meal. You may have noticed that I am quoting the calories out, which is a statistic that my new stepometer gives me. But I'm not sure I dare try to calculate the calories in! So far today a plate of beans for breakfast, a lovely selection of cheese, pickle and salad from the Fox and Hounds, for my packed lunch, flapjack from the Black Sail YH and Mars bar cake from the Honister quarry, rounded off by a Piazzola omelete and walnut and maple ice cream from the Riverside bar. So probably more in than out!

Day 1 April 17th St Bees to Ennerdale Bridge

Weather: Cloudy start, sunny finish; Steps: 36253; Distance: 15miles ;Time: 7h45m; Calories out: 1092; Blisters: nil!

After breakfast took a walk to the church, which had been an Abbey which kept going even through the reformation. It was built of lovely red sandstone with a Norman doorway. My friends, Anne and John, came to wave us off before they headed up Scafell Pike! Started with a great cliff top walk. Saw kittiwakes, razorbills, guillemot, and cormorants but just missed the puffins. Also passed some 'pattering holes', must find out what they are. Could see the Isle of Man quite clearly and the Scottish hills

Had lunch at Scalegill Beck and the sun began to shine, staying out for the rest of the day. Walked up Dent Hill and got our first real view of the Lake District, bathed in sunshine. Had a steep descent down Raven Crag the steepist of the C2C, into a beautiful deep valley of Nannycatch Beck.

Staying at the Fox and Hounds, an iconic Lakeland pub, that was recently bought by the villagers. It has 174 shareholders and has been completely done up.  Well done them. The room is perfect, with a big bath to bathe my tired limbs. Also had fantastic food tonight. They even have wifi so have been able to post this and yesterday's entry.

Day 0 April 16th Maidenhead to St Bees

Arrived at St Bees after a nine hour train journey. It was very picturesque though. Due to engineering works the route was diverted after Preston along the Settle-Carlisle line. It took ages but at least I got though half a book on my Kindle. Perhaps the 6 that I downloaded for the 2 weeks wasn't an overestimate!

We're staying at the Stonehouse Farm, which is a working farm and keeps Texel sheep. Had a meal at the Manor House, Inn then walked down to the sea. Did the customary dip of our toes in the Irish Sea and choose a pebble to carry with us Coast to Coast to deposit in the north sea.

My first blog

I set this up today, inspired by my CPPE design day to look at e-communications. I thought I'd use it initially to report back from my Coast to Coast walk.